Monday, August 29, 2011

Fashion Plates from the McCall Company - 1901 - Afternoon Toilettes and Street Costumes

This page has much more helpful information. Dated May, 1901 it's out of McCall's Magazine and shows in color; McCall 6527 Misses' Guimpe Dress, McCall 6538 Ladies' Eton Jacket and McCall 6540 Ladies' Skirt. In gray tones; McCall 6562 Ladies' Shirt Waist, McCall 6532 Ladies' Skirt, McCall 6559 Misses' Jacket, McCall 6553 Misses' Skirt.
Take note of the way pleats and lace are used on the skirts, and the variety of collars. And while you are considering the serious underwear these women had to have on to get that silhouette, don't forget about how straight you'd have to stand to hold up those hats!



Sunday, August 28, 2011

Hand Colored Engraved Fashion Plate - Party Ladies!

This plate has no information either, so once again I hope a kind reader fills us in. But it's clear they are at a party, maybe a masquerade ball? You won't be able to miss the aprons or the hats, but look closely and find the pockets, the purse, the bows and all that handwork. Wow.


Thursday, August 25, 2011

Hand Colored Engraving of Ladies Hats

I have no information about this page, but these hats are lovely. I hope somebody comes along who can guess at a date.


Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Modes de Paris - 1860 Hand-Colored Engraving

This shows a young lady in her fancy ball gown and her more demure friend in the Late Victorian fashions of 1860. This plate has lots of information, but it's all in French. I tried Google Translate and got this close, but I'm sure somebody out there can do better. It is dated February 11, 1860 and numbered 3122.
"Modes de Paris Petit Paris Boulesart Letters to the ladies of Italy, a
Modes and Mrs. Bricard Calmann, Virginia Vasseur Trimmings Dresses
Lace was the thought of Violard. Fabrics of three quarters of Mrs. Clemencon Corsets, Perfumes of Laboullee. Byoux in hair Fluri to Lemonnier Cilman Fans of Duvelleroy"


Monday, August 22, 2011

Styles for Any Season - 1959

Styles for Any Season, indeed! I only wish I had the pattern for that vixen dress. But looking closer it's not the dress it's self, it's all about how she's wearing it. The hair, the jewelry, and those shoes...the gal has it going on. And to think this was in a Workbasket magazine!


Sunday, August 21, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 10 - Accessories, Their Importance and How To Plan Them

The last of these booklets from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We've seen highlights from each one. Today it's Accessories, Their Importance and How To Plan Them. But this is a section about "Hat Lines - How They Affect Face and Figure". Pay attention!




Saturday, August 20, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 9 - Professional Finishing Details

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Professional Finishing Details. There were lots of topics to choose from but let's learn about Soutache Braid, Novelty Trims, Machine Stitched Braid and everybody's favorite Rick Rack!





Friday, August 19, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 8 Finishing Coats & Suits, Linings

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Finishing Coats & Suits, Linings, but we want to know about fur trimmings, remembering that fake fur is mostly treated the same.




"...be pieced with sections in the manner described in the paragraph on "Piecing Fur". Fur that is in good condition on the outside but that tears easily because of a tender pelt may be reinforced with cambric. Remove the interlining from the pelt and place the cambric next to the pelt. Quilt the cambric to the pelt, taking stitches 1/2-inch long on the cambric side and catching a very tiny stitch in the pelt. The stitches into the pelt must not catch any of the hair. Do not pull the stitches tight. The entire fur may be reinforced in this way or just the necessary sections may be reinforced. Fig. 24 (1).
Fur may also be quickly reinforced by cementing the cotton cambric. This method is practical only if the pelt is too tender to hold the quilting stitches. Choose a rubber cement or other adhesive such as milliners' glue that does not require heat. With a brush or spatula, spread the cement evenly over the pelt, then apply the cambric. The cambric will in this way adhere to the pelt and stitching is unnecessary. Fig. 24 (J). Finish the fur with interlining and tape as explained before.


Fur Cloth: Good imitations of fur may be purchased by the yard as fur cloth. However, fur cloth should not be confused with fur in construction, for it is treated as a fabric.
In cutting remember that the nap should run down toward the bottom of the garment.
If the fabric has a thick, heavy nap use a long stitch in sewing on the machine. Press all seams over a velvet board. If one is not accessible the seams may be pressed lightly on the wrong side and then steamed as for velvets.
Fur cloth will enhance the beauty of a garment if a good quality is purchased and if the precautions given for cutting and construction are followed closely."

Thursday, August 18, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 7 - Sleeve Finishes - Hems and Setting in Sleeves

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Sleeve Finishes, with a detailed look at hems. All sorts of hems, self-stitched, taped, catch stitched, pinked, rolled, rolled whipped, shell, picot, edge-stitched and even hems for tricky areas, in a pleat, how to hem a fly front closing, interfaced hem of a jacket and hem finish at a faced edge.
So much to know, but oh so important to get these details right!

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Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 6 - Fittings!

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Fittings - Shoulder pads and Slide fasteners, with a special look at "Skirt-Top Finishes". You are shown a skirt-top with a belt or with facings. Enjoy!




Monday, August 15, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 5 Button Loops!

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Buttonholes, Pockets, Neck Finishes with a special look at Button Loops, a fine way to class up your outfit!




Sunday, August 14, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 4 - So many Seams!

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Assembly of Garment. This includes so many types of Seams, Plain Pinked, Self Stitched, Lapped, Tucked, Overcast, Self Covered, Bound, Catch Stitched, Double Stitched, Welt, Double Stitched Welt, Flat Felled, Hand Fished Felled, Simulated Slot, Slot, Strap, Piped, Corded, Taped, and Crossed! There must be some techniques here you haven't tried.







Saturday, August 13, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 3 - Cutting

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Cutting - Effects of Cutting on Final Appearance of Garment, with help on matching plaids, checks, stripes!






Thursday, August 11, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 2 - Pattern Alteration

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Pattern Alteration, To Enlarge Waist or Hip.





Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - Lesson 1 - 1948

I just got a set of ten booklets called Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's "Figure Analysis". Stand up straight!